What Is Skin Dermaplaning? How It Works, Benefits and Risks

How Dermaplaning Works

During dermaplaning, the skin is cleansed and dried, then held taut while a sterile blade is drawn across it in short, light strokes at about a 45-degree angle. The blade removes the outermost layer of dead skin cells along with fine vellus hair. No chemicals are used, which is one reason some people prefer it to peels.

Before starting, a professional will usually check your skin for breakouts, cold sores or irritation and ask about medications. Professional dermaplaning uses a surgical-style scalpel blade. At-home tools use a smaller, safer blade with guards, which removes less and carries less risk of cuts. Our guide on facial razors versus normal razors explains why the tool matters.

Benefits of Dermaplaning

The main benefits are cosmetic and usually visible immediately.

• Smoother-looking skin with less visible dead skin build-up.
• Removal of peach fuzz, which can make skin look brighter.
• Makeup and sunscreen that apply more evenly.
• Skincare products that spread more easily.
• No chemical exfoliants, which suits some people who react to acids.

Some people also find that dermaplaning helps with the look of mild, rough texture. It will not remove deep scars, wrinkles or pigmentation, although skin may look slightly more even because the surface reflects light better. Many people notice the biggest difference in how foundation and powder look, since there is less fine hair and dead skin for makeup to catch on. Skincare applied afterwards can also feel as if it absorbs more easily, though that does not mean it works more strongly.

Does Hair Grow Back Thicker?

One of the most common worries is that shaving the face will make hair grow back thicker, darker or coarser. This is a myth. Cutting hair at the surface does not change the follicle, so it cannot change how thick, dark or fast the hair grows.

What can happen is that regrowing hair feels slightly blunt for a few days because it was cut straight across rather than tapering naturally. This is temporary, and the hair softens as it grows out. Regrowth usually appears within a few weeks, at the same rate as before. If you notice coarse, dark hair growing on the chin, upper lip or jawline, that is terminal hair rather than vellus hair, and it is not caused by dermaplaning. New or increasing coarse facial hair in women can have hormonal causes; our guide on normal facial hair versus PCOS explains when it may need checking.

Risks and Side Effects

Dermaplaning is generally low risk when done carefully, but it is still a form of exfoliation with a sharp blade.

• Small nicks or cuts, especially with incorrect angle or pressure.
• Redness, stinging or irritation, particularly on sensitive skin.
• Breakouts if bacteria are spread by an unclean blade or over active acne.
• Increased sensitivity to sun and active ingredients for a few days.
• Flares of rosacea or eczema in people prone to them.

The American Academy of Dermatology explains that exfoliation should be gentle and not too frequent, and warns that people using retinoids or with sensitive skin may react more strongly. Read its advice on how to exfoliate safely at home.

Who Should Avoid Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning suits many people with normal, dry or combination skin, but it is not right for everyone.

• People with active inflammatory acne or frequent breakouts.
• Those with rosacea, eczema or psoriasis on the face.
• Anyone using oral isotretinoin or who has recently finished it.
• People using strong prescription retinoids, unless a professional advises otherwise.
• Anyone with sunburn, cold sores or broken skin.

If you have darker skin that tends to develop dark marks after irritation, go gently or choose a professional who has experience with your skin tone. Irritation from over-exfoliation can leave marks that last for months. If you are unsure whether your skin is suitable, a dermatologist or experienced esthetician can assess it first, and a small test area along the jawline is a sensible first step at home.

Professional Versus At-Home Dermaplaning

Both options remove dead skin and fine hair, but they differ in depth, risk and results.

If you want to try it at home, use a dedicated dermaplaning tool, never a regular razor or an unguarded scalpel, and replace or sanitise it as directed. Our guide on waxing versus shaving facial hair compares other hair removal options.

How to Care for Your Skin Before and After Dermaplaning

1. Pause strong actives

   Stop retinoids and acids a few days before.

2. Cleanse and dry

   Start with clean, completely dry skin.

3. Use a clean tool

   Use a new or sanitised blade on skin free of breakouts.

4. Hold skin taut

   Use short, light strokes at a shallow angle, moving downwards.

5. Soothe

   Apply a gentle hydrating serum or moisturiser.

6. Protect

   Use broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.

7. Wait before actives

   Restart retinoids and acids after a few days.

Avoid the area around the eyes, the nose and the lips, where skin is thin and the contours make cuts more likely. Keep strokes light; pressing harder does not remove more dead skin and increases the risk of irritation. Go over each area only once or twice, and stop if your skin starts to sting or look red. Clean the blade with alcohol between uses if the instructions allow reuse, and replace it as soon as it feels dull, because a blunt blade drags and irritates the skin.

Aftercare and Sun Protection

Freshly dermaplaned skin can be more sensitive for a few days. Keep your routine simple with a gentle cleanser, a hydrating serum or moisturiser and sunscreen.

The American Academy of Dermatology explains how to apply sunscreen correctly. Avoid heavy makeup for the rest of the day if you can, skip saunas and intense exercise for about 24 hours and hold off on exfoliants for several days. For more on gentle options between treatments, see our guide to gentler alternatives to exfoliation.

Dermaplaning Compared With Other Exfoliation

Dermaplaning is one of several ways to exfoliate. Each works differently, and the best choice depends on your skin and goals.

• Chemical exfoliants such as AHAs and BHAs dissolve the bonds between dead cells and can reach into pores; they do not remove hair.
• Enzyme exfoliants are gentler and suit sensitive skin, but work more slowly.
• Scrubs physically buff the surface but can irritate if the particles are rough.
• Microdermabrasion uses a device to abrade the surface and can be slightly more intense.
• Dermaplaning removes dead skin and fine hair together with a blade and no chemicals.

If your main concern is clogged pores or blackheads, a salicylic acid product is often more useful than dermaplaning, because it works inside the pore. If your main concern is peach fuzz and makeup sitting unevenly, dermaplaning may suit you better. Many people alternate methods, but avoid using several strong exfoliants in the same week.

People with dry skin often like dermaplaning because it removes flakes without the stinging some acids cause. People with oily, acne-prone skin usually get more benefit from chemical exfoliants and should avoid shaving over breakouts.

Dos and Don’ts

Honest Limits

Dermaplaning is a cosmetic surface treatment. It does not treat acne, deep wrinkles, scarring or pigmentation, and its effects fade as skin and hair regrow.

There is limited high-quality research on dermaplaning compared with other exfoliation methods. Most of what is known comes from clinical experience, so results and tolerance vary between people. If your skin does not like it, there is no need to continue; gentle chemical exfoliation or simply a good moisturiser and sunscreen can keep skin looking smooth.

When to See a Dermatologist

• You develop persistent redness, burning or rash after dermaplaning.
• Cuts become red, swollen or painful, or show signs of infection.
• You notice dark patches after treatment that do not fade.
• You have sudden new coarse facial hair growth.

Questions People Ask

The Takeaway

Dermaplaning uses a fine blade to remove dead skin and peach fuzz, leaving skin smoother and helping makeup sit more evenly. It does not make hair grow back thicker, and results last about three to four weeks.

Avoid it on acne, broken or very sensitive skin, use a proper tool with light strokes and protect your skin with moisturiser and sunscreen afterwards.