Facial Waxing vs Dermaplaning: Which Is Better for Facial Hair and Smooth Skin?

Facial Waxing vs Dermaplaning at a Glance

This table summarises the main differences.

Both can be done professionally or at home. Professional treatments are more consistent, while home versions are more convenient and cheaper per use. Whichever you choose, consistency matters: sticking to one method for a few months gives you a clearer idea of how your hair and skin respond than switching back and forth.

How Facial Waxing Works

Facial waxing uses either hot wax, which hardens and is peeled off, or soft wax and strips. The wax grips hairs and pulls them out from the follicle. Because the whole hair is removed, regrowth takes longer, and many people find it grows back finer after repeated waxing, though this varies.

Waxing is especially popular for the upper lip, chin, jawline, sideburns and eyebrows, where hairs are often more visible. It works best when hair is at least a few millimetres long, so there is a short period of visible regrowth between sessions.

The American Academy of Dermatology shares step-by-step tips in its guide on how to wax. For a wider comparison, see our guide to waxing versus shaving facial hair.

How Dermaplaning Works

Dermaplaning uses a small, sterile blade held at a shallow angle and drawn across taut skin in short, gentle strokes. It removes fine vellus hair and the loose top layer of dead skin cells at the same time.

The immediate result is smooth, bright-looking skin, and many people like how makeup glides on afterwards. Because it exfoliates, skincare products may also feel as if they spread more evenly.

• Professional dermaplaning: done by an esthetician with a surgical-style scalpel, often as part of a facial.
• At-home tools: small, guarded razors designed for the face, which are gentler but less precise.
• Not suitable for: active acne, inflamed skin or areas with raised lesions.

A systematic review published in Aesthetic Plastic Surgery and available on PubMed found that the scientific data supporting dermaplaning was scarce and anecdotal, while noting that many patients report being pleased. It recommended realistic expectations and using such treatments within a routine that includes sunscreen. Our guide to what dermaplaning is covers the treatment in more detail.

Results: Which Lasts Longer and Looks Better?

Results depend on your hair type and what you want to achieve.

A common worry is that dermaplaning makes hair grow back thicker. Shaving cuts hair at the surface, so regrowth has a blunt tip that can feel slightly coarser at first, but it does not change the thickness, colour or rate of growth. The same is true of waxing. What does differ is how regrowth looks: after waxing, hairs return gradually with tapered tips, while after dermaplaning, fuzz returns evenly across the face at the same time. Some people notice regrowth sooner on the upper lip and chin, where hair is often darker and faster growing.

Side Effects and Who Should Avoid Them

Both methods are generally safe, but each carries its own risks.

• Waxing: redness, small bumps, ingrown hairs, and occasionally burns or lifted skin if wax is too hot or skin is fragile.
• Dermaplaning: mild redness, small nicks or cuts, dryness and, rarely, breakouts from irritation.
• Both: infection if tools or wax are not hygienic.
• Darker skin: irritation can leave dark marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation).

If facial hair suddenly increases, becomes coarse or appears alongside irregular periods or acne, see a doctor, as hormonal conditions can be the cause. Our guide on normal facial hair versus PCOS explains when to get checked.

How to Choose Between Facial Waxing and Dermaplaning

1. Look at your hair type

   Coarse or dark hair suits waxing; fine, light peach fuzz suits dermaplaning.

2. Decide what else you want

   If you also want exfoliation and a glow, dermaplaning adds that.

3. Check your skin

   Avoid both on inflamed, broken or acne-prone flare areas.

4. Review your medications

   Retinoids and isotretinoin make both risky.

5. Consider frequency

   Waxing lasts longer; dermaplaning usually needs repeating every few weeks.

6. Choose home or professional

   Professionals give more even results; home tools are convenient.

7. Plan aftercare

   Soothe skin, skip strong actives for a day or two and wear sunscreen.

If you are also considering an epilator, our guide on epilator versus waxing for facial hair compares the two.

Doing It at Home Safely

Both methods can be done at home with care.

• Start with clean, dry skin and no oils or heavy creams.
• For waxing, test the temperature on your inner wrist, apply in the direction of hair growth and pull against it, holding skin taut.
• For dermaplaning, hold the tool at a shallow angle, use short, light downward strokes and keep skin taut.
• Avoid going over the same area repeatedly.
• Use a new or cleaned tool each time and never share razors.

Skip the eyelids and be very careful around the nose and lips. If you have raised moles or lesions, work around them rather than over them. If you have never tried either method, a professional appointment first can be a useful way to learn the right technique, pressure and angle before doing it yourself. Replace blades as soon as they feel dull, as a dull blade drags on the skin and increases irritation.

Aftercare Tips

Good aftercare reduces redness and helps prevent bumps and ingrown hairs.

After waxing, avoid hot showers, saunas, heavy makeup and exfoliants for the rest of the day. A cool compress or a soothing gel can calm any redness. A few days later, gentle exfoliation can help prevent ingrown hairs.

After dermaplaning, skin is freshly exfoliated and more sensitive to the sun and to strong products. Use a gentle cleanser and a simple moisturiser, avoid acids and retinoids for a day or two and apply broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.

How Often Should You Do Each?

Facial waxing is usually repeated every three to six weeks, once hair has grown long enough for the wax to grip. Waxing too often, before hair has grown back, mainly irritates the skin without removing much hair.

Dermaplaning is commonly repeated every three to four weeks, which roughly matches how quickly the surface layer and fine hair return. Doing it more often can over-exfoliate the skin, leading to dryness, redness and sensitivity, especially if you also use acids or retinoids.

Some people alternate the two, waxing coarser areas such as the lip and chin and dermaplaning the rest of the face. If you do both, avoid treating the same area within a few days of each other, and give skin time to recover in between. Keeping a simple note of when you last treated each area makes it easier to stick to a comfortable schedule and spot what your skin tolerates best.

Dos and Don’ts

Honest Limits

Neither method removes hair permanently. For long-term reduction of noticeable facial hair, options such as laser hair removal or electrolysis may be more suitable, and a dermatologist can advise on what fits your skin and hair colour.

Evidence on dermaplaning’s skin benefits beyond hair removal is limited, so its glow is best seen as the result of exfoliation rather than lasting change. Waxing and dermaplaning both work best alongside a gentle routine and daily sun protection.

When to See a Doctor

• You notice sudden or rapidly increasing facial hair.
• You develop painful bumps, pus or signs of infection after hair removal.
• Skin lifts, blisters or burns after waxing.
• Dark marks or scarring appear after repeated hair removal.

Your Questions, Answered

Where This Leaves You

Facial waxing removes hair from the root for longer-lasting results and suits coarser hair, while dermaplaning shaves fine peach fuzz and dead skin for an instant smooth, bright finish.

Choose based on your hair type and goals, avoid both on irritated skin or while using strong acne medication, and protect your skin with gentle aftercare and daily sunscreen.